*I should first apologize for the buzz-word phrase, but some articles I’m including are not just on furniture or woodwork but tools and other techniques. Also, it would be nice if someone under thirty visited this blog, other than the author. Finally, it’s used in the second article from the first issue, so I am comfortable with the inter-temporal significance of the word.
I am reading through WORK magazine from the beginning and thought I’d pull out some noteworthy articles that I think should be on the mandatory reading list for those of us that like to work at making things. My bent is towards woodworking and tools but a fair amount of the metalwork will be included, along with whatever else tickles my fancy. Included are the great articles with indispensable information. Books referenced in articles are, where possible, cited and linked within my entry for each issue. If you’d like more in-depth discussion of the articles, they are in the public domain and can be republished. Otherwise I’ll refer you to:
Tools for Working Wood (scanned issues on blog)
The Internet Archive (scanned volumes in several formats; get the PDFs)
It’s quite enlightening to see the knowledge shared in Work, the broad range of interests of the readers, and the availability of information across continents. We are enjoying a swell of amateur work with the internet, but that tool is not necessary for either the audience or the forum.
I feel obligated to note that the Work editor often arranged the graphics in a seemingly random order. I’m sure it made good sense for print production but it can make the modern reader hunt for the alluded-to illustration.
WORK is over 100 years old, don’t assume anything described is safe or in some cases even legal. Use it for inspiration.
Articles:
This will be updated as I work through the series.
Vol 1
No. 1 March 23, 1889
“To Our Readers” pp 2-3
“A Chat About Furniture” pp 5-7 For the ‘cant’ legs, consider using a stopped sliding dovetail: the female along the axis of the leg, with the stop on the bottom of the leg so it will slide no farther up than necessary. The male formed on the ‘corner’ that article advises to trim off.
“The Kaleidoscope [...]” pp 11-12 A simple kaleidoscope design.
“Our Guide to Good Things” pp 13-14 #2 is what we now call a spiral jig saw blade, and it is amazing to see its first introduction.
No. 2 March 30, 1889
“A Home-Made Dog Chuck” pp 17-8 (1-2) I probably wouldn’t make one of these, but the riveting directions (pun intended) at the end of the first page are good advise at a largely lost art, at least by us amateurs.
“Lathes and Turning Appliances” pp 18-9 (2-3) Just a great article with an eloquent introduction. Note that the common mahcinist’s bench vise is called a parallel vise and that reamers are call rhymers. Hasluck’s “The Metal-Turner’s Handybook” (misspelled in the article). Also check out: Hasluck’s “Lathe-Work” and “The Mechanic’s Workshop Handybook“. These are actually given in the adverts at the end. By-the-way: a goniostat is a lovely word for a specific type of sharpening/grinding/lapping jig, typically of two orthogonal axis, or in other words a compound angle.
“Why Does a Tool cut?” p 21 (5) A great article that gives anyone a basis to understand discussions about tool geometry. There may be a few minor points that are contested in modern research however.
“Artistic Furniture” p 23-6 (7) Begins with full-page treatise arguing for simple, modern construction techniques and against rigid and slow traditional methods. There are some very valid arguments but I have to say dovetails are awesome. The rest of the article is less interesting.
“How to Make a Wooden Copying Press” pp 27-8 (11-2) Fun project that can be adapted for other purposed—presses are always useful—and is encouraging of improvisation and adaptation of at-hand resources. I’d recommend for fixing the end of the screw that a groove be cut around the circumference of the screw slightly wider than some dowels that would be cross-drilled through the block G. It’s important that the dowels or pins NOT be in contact with the sides of the channel when compressed, only on retraction. There are certainly other methods, and the author’s could of course be tried and later retrofitted.
In “Means, Modes, and Methods” p 30 a corrosion or rust joint is described. While this might make a solid joint at the time, it will allow for further degradation and should not be used for any purpose.
No. 3 April 6, 1889
“Tips for Tyros” p 43 (11) Several ‘hacks’ to replicate ornamental work. There are probably better options today, such as vacu-formed plastic or commercial elastic molding materials. ‘Bronzing’ is still a technique in regular use by model & prop makers, though the ingredients have changed.
No. 4 April 13, 1889
“Home-Made Tools” p 49-50 (1-2) You should really build these planes. I’ll let you know when mine are done. The measurements given at the bottom of p 1 col. 1 are 3/16 and 1/64. These refer to the wood to make the pattern for casting the body.
“Lathes and Turning Appliances” pp 50-1 (2-3) A continuation from Issue 1, more excellent information that still applies. “Ornamental Turning” J.H. Evans Vol. 1, Vol. 2, Vol. 3. “Lathes and Turning” W.H. Northcott, “The Lathe and Its Uses” J. Lukin, and “Lathe-Work” P.N. Hasluck.
“Why Does a Tool Cut?” p 59-60 (11-2) A continuation from Issue 2, with decent examples, see my previous note.
No. 5 April 20, 1889
“Friendly Hints to Amateur Wood Workers” pp 66-7 (2-3) Tip about shop made cane glue brushes. The portion about tools and mastery rings so true. Use a scraper.
“Home-Made Tools” pp 67-70 (3-6) Not wishing to string us along give us time to finish the fore-plane from the prior week, we get plans vague illustrations for two more planes, a smoother and a chariot plane. Don’t use red lead paste. Try chalk, marker or paint.
“Frames a la Mode” pp 71-4 (7-10) Not for its plans of frames but for the extensive commentary on taste.
“Ornamental Turning” J.H. Evans Vol. 1, Vol. 2, Vol. 3.
No. 6 April 27, 1889
“Binding Made Easy” pp 81-3 (1-3) While not necessarily a treatise on quality binding, it is still a practical guide for the amateur.
“Lathes and Turning Appliances” pp 90-2 (10-2) Continued from No. 4. The relatively (in modern times) obscure overhead drives. CNC eat your heart out.
“Turning and Mechanical Manipulation” Holtzapffel Vol. 5. This volume is quite difficult to find online at this time.
No. 7 May 4, 1889
“The Scratch or Beading Router” pp 101-3 (5-7) The basics of scratch beading over-explained.
“‘Tips for Tyros’” p (7) Look up Boulle Work. Wikipedia article. Popular Woodworking article. Video from Victoria & Albert museum. It’s unclear why the editors used the misspelling. The faux plaster technique is still used today, there may be tips on the internet.
“Hinges: Their Varieties and Application” pp 103-6 (7-11) A wide variety of hinges.
“Our Guide to Good Things: 31″ pp 108 (12) The C. H. Matthews lever/cam handle clamp.
No. 8 May 11, 1889
“Some Lessons from an Old Bureau” pp 113-6 (1-4) Excellent discussion of furniture, design and culture in the beginning.
“Lathes and Turning Appliances” pp 118-120 (6-8) Continued from No. 6. The relatively (in modern times) obscure overhead drives.
“Our Guide to Good Things 34. Spear and Jackson’s Improved Pattern Silver-Steel Handsaw” pp 124 (12) Review of a then new saw.
No. 9 May 18, 1889
“A Folding Chair for Hall or Garden” pp 131-4 (3-6) Short history and plan for ancient style folding chair.
“Binding Made Easy” pp 138-9 (10-11) Continued from No. 7. While not necessarily a treatise on quality binding, it is still a practical guide for the amateur.
“Shop: Wooden Copying Press” pp 141 (13) Clever copying press design to fit with an armchair. A follow-up to the design in V1-No.2
No. 11 June 1, 1889
“The Saw: How to Use It” pp 161-2 (1-2) There are many saw treatises but this is a decent intro.
“Shop: Pattern of Plane Casting” pp 172 (12) Notes of plane casting patterns.
No. 12 June 8, 1889
“Some Lessons from an Old Bureau” pp 181-2 (5-6) Part 2 of the article from No. 8.
No. 13 June 15, 1889
“A ‘Cheval Screen’ Escritoire” pp x-x (x-x) Remarkable for this quote:
“…the original cabinet which supplied the motive of this combined screen and escritoire, was, at least, a hundred years old, possibly more. If our construction lasts out the century – not this century, but the hundred years from date – it will, probably, outlive our reputation, most likely our very memory. The individual who writes, and the one who is now kindly reading it, will most probably be entirely gone from human knowledge by 1989.”- J.W. Gleeson-White, 1889 and re-posted to the internet 2023
No. 14
“The Tenant’s Greenhouse” pp 211-2 (3-4) While more modern designs exist, I’m sure a few English houses still have greenhouses with these elements.
“Japanese Motives for Fret Cutting” pp 215-8 (7-10) Despite the quirky title this article explains some of the late Victorian view of Japanese furniture and art work as well as provided some Anglicized decorative templates.
The Boomerang How to Make It and Throw It, Alfred Beddow
http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-2843588153
No. 15
“The Saw: How to Use It” pp 226-7 (2-3) Part 2 of the article in No. 9.
“The Tenant’s Greenhouse” pp 227-8 (3-4) Part 2 of the article in No. 14.
“Syer’s Patent Bench Knife or Back Stop” p235 (11) An alternative to a tail vise with a dog.
A quote from the letters section:
“You cannot get the oil out without spoiling them, or at least running great risk of doing so. The blocks are purposely oiled, both in order to improve them for working and to preserve the wood in perfect condition, so that I am at a loss to understand why you want to eliminate it. Few, if any, practical mechanics would regard a wooden smoothing plane as complete till it had been saturated with oil, a very common plan being to fill the hole with oil, after stopping it on the face, and leave it till absorbed. If the planes you wish to free from oil are new, and you find them too greasy to handle pleasantly, remember that time will effect the cure. I have said this to show the folly of trying to eliminate the oil; but if you are still determined to try you might keep the planes in a warm place to cause them to ‘sweat.’” -D. ANo. 16
“A Block Plane and Plane with Lever Adjustment” pp 243-4 (4-5) An article on plane construction. Aside from the period insights contained within there is this quote: “Doubtless there is much to be said on both sides, inasmuch as some have neither time nor inclination to do anything of the kind for themselves, and others are better pleased to use anything that has cost them both time and trouble to make better than the best of its kind that can be purchased at the tool shops”.
“Some Rustic Carpentry” pp 247-9 (7-9) Some late 19th century style rustic garden furniture and fences. These are a little different than the American style outdoor woodwork.
No. 17
“Lathes for Everybody” pp 261-2 (5-6) A short article about making a light duty wood turning lathe.
“Pin-Hole Photography” p 262 (6) An introduction to the basics of pin-hole photography.
In the SHOP section we get an answer to the age-old nib question:
“Hand Saw. – H. A. G. (Runby).- You ask, “What is the use of the little knob at the end of a hand saw, which projects above the blade at the end of it?” It is of no use whatsoever; it is merely ornamental, and is introduced, I take it, merely as affording less abruptness in the transition from the broader to the narrower part of the blade. The decrease in width from heel to end of the saw blade tends to lighten the weight and render the saw more manageable, if I may so speak”.
No. X
“Title” pp x-x (x-x) Description.
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